Best of luck. Take a torch, small hand mirror (preferably attached to a stick:))
I would be looking at the following + using the guide:
-First thing I would do is to ring them and ask if the engine can be cold for when you arrive. I would want to check how it starts under cold conditions, listening for any knocks on start up or anything else untoward.
-Use the mirror on a stick and have a look under the car for any obvious chassis damage. Chances are you won't see a lot of damage but worth checking. It will also give you a chance to spy any oil leaks which will be around the sump/gearbox usually.
Also look at the ARB links making sure they haven't snapped and look at the CV gaitors to make sure they haven't split.
This will all be fiddly and annoying (maybe even embarrassing depending on you but is definitely worth doing).
-Check all the levels under the bonnet (making sure the ground is level as it will make noticeable difference if it isn't). Check the colour of the oil when cold and then again when hot. Will be darker when cold but make sure it isn't too thick and sludgy as could be a sign of neglect.
-I would be checking service history. Looking for things like: how often has the oil been changed and with what oil, same for gearbox oil, clutch and brake fluid. Take the time to read every last bit service history. I missed a few things on my first ATR and if I had seen them now I wouldn't have been as happy paying the asking price and maybe wouldn't have been left with a knackered crank.
Look to see if the cambelt and auto tensioner has been changed. The auto tensioner is prone to failing which most Honda dealerships deny to the bitter end so make sure it was done with the belt. (just seen on the advert that the belt has been done, was the tensioner done? Has it ever been done as after 80k it could easily be on its way oooot)
If it's a pre facelift car, check to see if the 5th/reverse gear syncro/selector fork has been fixed.
-Is the AC blowing cold? Put the blowers on the first setting and press the AC button. Can you here the Compressor clutch cut in?
-Use the torch and have a quick squint at the shocks checking for leaks
-Have a look at the brake discs. Make sure they aren't lipped are the edges and look for ridges across the face. If they are ridged you will probably feel the brakes judder on the test drive. Also have a look at the pads with your torch, a little difficult to see through the caliper but try from different angles and you will work it out.
(Have just seen on the car's advert it has new pads all round. I would check that for piece of mind and definitely check the discs. A general rule is one set of discs for every two sets of pads so the discs could easily be worn)
-Front engine mount - make sure it isn't split (100 quid fix or so)
-HID adjuster on OSR suspension - check to see that it isn't broken/damaged
-Check the inside tread of the tyre to check for allignment issues (easily overlooked)
-Do a general damage report on the car. Body panels lining up nicely
-HID washer jets
-Check all the lights on the dash come on with the ignition on (especially engine management light, abs etc)
-Check all the lights work (again obvious)
-Check the interior. Damage to seats, does the lumbar inflator on the drivers seat work, windows, aerial comes up with ignition, central locking, seat belts, sit in back seats and look at general condition. Also check in the spare tyre well. Is there any water or rust? Off the top of my head it's a dodgy boot seal that causes a leak.
-On road test;
*check for pulling
*check that ABS works
*check VTEC engages (remembering to properly warm the engine beforehand)
*look for the revs hunting at idle
*check that the revs increase smoothly through the range
*check that fifth gear engages without any 'notchyness'
*I would also aim for potholes (at slow, safe speeds) and listen for any knocks/creaks
*Get the steering on full lock a few times, especially at low speeds and listen for creaks which would imply that the diff fluid needs changing
There's probably a few things I've forgotten but I hope that helps. You sound like you know Hondas pretty well so I can't see you having any problems. What I would say is going to a private car sale with the idea in your head of coming away with the car can be dangerous.
I would try and change my frame of mind and look at it from a balanced point of view. Imagine you were buying this on behalf of a friend, would they be happy with it, would they be happy with having to, for example, change the brake pads within a month of buying. Can you knock the seller down because of this etc.
Very best of luck once again.
This post has been edited by christhesecond: 16 December 2009 - 12:29 PM